Postedby  | May31,2018 |  |

Preparing for a Worst Case Scenario: The 10-Week Plan, Part 5

For parts, 1, 2, 3 & 4 , click the number of the part you wish to read.

Other very important field gear and equipment are:  Toilet paper (2 rolls per person minimum, 3 for females), a “spork” (spoon/fork hybrid) made out of aluminum (against breakage), a “utility pot” (can be a canteen cup), 4 tooth brushes per person with the handle cut in half (weight/space reduction), parachute cord (at least 200 feet), a fire starting device (BIC type lighter as well as sparking device and the knowledge on how to use it) .


You will also want to consider a FRS/GMRS type walkie-talkie, or, ideally, get a ham technician license and a few Baofeng UV-5R radios (NC Scout has a wealth of posts here, and at his site on this very subject – all gratis – and if you want to learn how to use your equipment, sign up for his RTO courses), spare batteries, 3 & flash lights (small LED are best), spare batteries and some spare batteries.  Get the point?  You’re going to need some batteries, especially for comms, if you want to stay informed by listening.

Now, ideally, you get the references, study, get your tech license for all of $15 (good for 10 years) and you’re on your way.  Other, more robust radios, both hand held, mobile, and base stations are out there, but for the 10 week plan, these suffice nicely.  I have a couple as well.

For carrying this gear on your person, you’ll probably want a Load Bearing Vest or harness.  You can pick these up cheap on the internet.  We prefer the “H” harness and a ‘battle belt’, but each person has their own preferences.  Some like vests; others more exotic set ups.  Below is similar to what we prefer.  Sure, it’s old school, but it’s inexpensive, and it works.  Like there’s no tomorrow.  Remember, this is to get set up quickly making every dollar count.



As for clothing, make sure it’s not bright and at least doesn’t clash with your surroundings.  If you’re going to be moving through or staying in urban areas, you don’t want the latest camouflage pattern; if you’re moving through or staying in a rural area, you definitely want some surplus GI camouflage uniforms (with all insignia removed) or better yet, Coyote Brown or Grey pants and jackets.  You can find old woodland BDU uniforms very cheaply at garage sales, on the internet, and so forth.

Make sure you have weather appropriate clothing as well:  Cold weather boots, socks, underwear, etc.  Frostbite can kill you.

These are most of the items you’d most likely need to survive a scenario from an equipment perspective.  But what about the “people” angle?  Contrary to what some think, no man is an island and you can’t do it all by yourself.

Getting It Done….

You need support – a team member, someone to watch your back.  Oh sure, some folks have large families and can delegate those tasks, but many, many others, just have themselves or a spouse/significant other.  And, usually, that spouse/significant other is not trained nor has the discipline to handle the more arduous, but very mundane tasks required.

So, what do you do then?  You get yourself a “buddy”.  You can do that in the 10 week time period handily.  Start checking out your friends.  See which ones seem to be alarmed with what’s going on as you are.  Then, find a time to speak with them alone and “test the waters”.  If they agree and want to do something, give them a copy of this and get to work.

While getting your equipment and supplies together, draft and develop your plan.  Will you:

  • Stay put?  Doing so in a large urban area most likely means you will be searched, possibly relocated, and should you resist, be in danger from the occupying force.  You need to consider getting out of the urban area as soon as possible before bad things occur, rather than after.
  • Run for the “hills”?  Ok, that’s plausible, but you need to really pay attention to where you might go, because in most states with large population centers, a significant amount of those ‘city people’ may be doing the same thing!  By necessity, your rule will be “no contact whatever” with others that you see along your way because you will have no way of knowing who, if anyone, is with them or has them under observation.
  • Pack up and move to Grandma’s?  Also feasible, provided Grandma has a place that will support the group you’re moving.  Think of hygiene requirements, sustenance, and life support (can you or your little group do something to earn silver?)
  • Give yourself up?  Many will be tempted and eventually succumb, but those who do will be even more miserable than those who stay the course.  Remember Thomas Paine, “…these are the times that try men’s souls….but he that stands it deserves the love of both men and women….”

Once you have your buddy and you begin to build trust between you and learn each other’s (both individually and group) likes, dislikes, habits and so forth, you can still find another “buddy team” to partner with.  That gives you a group from 8 to 24 or so, depending on family size.  The logistical requirements are more complex, but if each handles his own family/team, it’s not so overwhelming.   At the same time, you and your buddy(s) need to start studying.  If the internet is still up, go to Scribd and download and read this book, “A Failure of Civility”.  Go to and get a copy of Dr. Joseph P. Martino’s book, “Resistance to Tyranny”.  Start here at our blog and read everything on training, basic skills, and so forth.  That ought to keep you busy for the entire 10 weeks, and then, later, if you have the money and things haven’t imploded, get yourself to a good school for face to face training.  All of the blogs or sites listed above either offer training or can direct you to a reputable one, depending on your needs.  Do your research and focus on schools that are teaching survival skills, not just warfighting.

The next issue is leadership.  Teams just won’t work as a committee.  All your members will have input, sure, but someone has to make the hard decisions.  This may be the most complex issue you need to solve:  who will you or your little band trust to make those hard decisions, and will the group follow that person?  It’s notabout popularity, either.  It’s about ability and reason.  The best case scenario for you would be to have someone in your group who’s an experienced leader either in business or prior military (not just being in, but being in and being a leader!) which will provide you a foundation of discipline for your chosen leader.  The leader has to be secure enough to listen to others, humble enough to know others may have a great idea, selfless enough to put the group before his own needs (everyone always gets fed and watered before the leader), and tough enough to make the decisions that won’t be popular sometimes.  Admittedly, a tall order, but it has to be done.  Your leadership discussions may cause one or two to fall out of the group.  That’s going to happen.  If it does, let them leave with their self-respect.  Don’t hurt their pride or “throw them out”.  That’d be the worst thing you could do!    Remember, we’re talking about a whole new paradigm here:  Martial Law.  If someone leaves and goes away with their pride intact and holds no hard feelings, they won’t be so likely to turn you in to the “new” authorities.  They just might, however, if they have a chip on their shoulder or want to “pay you back” for some slight, real or imagined.  Be conscious of this group dynamic!  Now a word on being a good follower:  As your leader builds trust and earns your respect, you are obligated to be a good follower.  Don’t get involved in any back-biting, sabotaging, or otherwise dysfunctional group behavior.  This is for real, and bullshit adolescent games will only get you killed.  Do as you said you would do; do as you’re asked, and always, to the very best of your ability.

Networking follows:  If the net is still up, find others close by or in the area you are moving to (if you can) that feel as you do, at least on the face of it.  Start a dialog and listen carefully!  Be nice!  Help them do things.  Be a good neighbor.  Don’t get involved in chest thumping or penis measuring contests.  They should exhibit about the same anxiousness you have in networking.  If they’re too open and promise the moon for nothing in return or if they’re so closed they accuse you of being in the “enemy” camp, you don’t want anything to do with them.  Look elsewhere.  Common sense and values are key here.\

Finally, develop your “line in the sand”.  This is that one thing that will cause you to execute your plan.  An example would be the actual deployment of foreign or UN troops anywhere in the United States.  That action is an obvious declaration that the compact of the Unanimous Declaration and the Constitution of the United States has been discarded; once discarded, the Rule of Law is completely dead and buried.

So, as I said earlier, this is a “quick and dirty” discussion on how to plan and what to do in the 10 weeks between now and your own personal 10 week timeline.  How it comes out, we’ll all know soon enough, I guess.

Timeline wise, here’s an outline that may help:

Week 1:  Inventory, evaluate and prioritize equipment needs; evaluate available funds; begin fitness program.

Week 2:  Incorporate weapon familiarity training into schedule; gather fiscal resources and begin purchases.

Week 3:  Dry fire; look for “buddy”; evaluate friends on like-minded concerns; begin to educate your family/spouse/significant other.

Week 4:  Help “buddy” start preparations; continue equipment gathering.  Begin training immediate family members.

Week 5:  Determine “GOOD” location (if any), map route, and do initial route familiarization trip.  Modify route as actual conditions warrant.

Week 6:  Determine “line in the sand”; if you can, zero your rifle and get range time.  If not, continue practice with dry fire.

Week 7:  Look for like-minded people in GOOD location and at home.  Network.

Week 8:  Pack newly gathered equipment into GOOD kits and locate near transport.

Week 9:  Continue preparations; family/network education & planning.

Week 10:  Dress rehearsal; clean weapons, check equipment, food, etc.  Continue to increase fitness level, refine preparations, seek more training.

By the time you’re through the 10 week plan, the general election will have occurred, and you’ll be able to use the ensuing time between now and January, when the new president is sworn in, to further your preps and training.

Lastly, remember, you’re adapting a new way of life here.  Not some sort of paranoiac, delusional “everyone’s out to get me” mindset, but one of careful evaluation of what is and what can occur, and a solemn determination to keep freedom alive.  Because this is just the beginning-once all the people in the country doing this get their “sea legs”, the long journey undertaken to reclaim our freedoms has just begun.

What are you waiting for?

Building The Perfect AR-15 From The Ground Up

Here’s a piece-by-piece peek into how AR expert Tiger McKee builds all his guns.

What goes into a fighting AR-15?

The best thing about the AR platform is its modular design: You can configure it to fit any application, assembling an AR to meet your specific needs. I’m often asked about how my AR is set up, so I thought this would be a good time to share my setup with you.


Search For Simplicity

The primary purpose for my AR is self-defense, and therefore it’s lightweight — just a tad over 6 pounds. You never know how long you might have to carry your rifle or carbine. The last time we had bad tornadoes here, there was lootin’ ‘n shootin’ in areas nearby. We carried our ARs for 3 days until things settled down. Regardless of the application, unless you only shoot off a bench, weight is always an issue.

Simplicity is another goal, and it’s a concept I apply to all my long guns. The simpler the setup, the easier it is to use under stress. This is especially true for self-defense, when circumstances are likely to be less than ideal.

The Sling

My sling is a simple two-point design with a quick-release buckle. It’s normally used as a carry sling, looping over the support side shoulder. If I need both hands-free, it’s looped over my neck — what I call a “hasty” sling. Looping over the neck can get tiring, even with a lightweight carbine, so for use over extended periods of time I run my support arm through the sling and use it as a tactical sling. A quick-release buckle is mandatory to be able to get loose of the rifle if necessary. It’s a simple design, but it does everything I need. The simplicity concept carries over to other parts of my AR, too.

Stock Selection

I prefer fixed stocks to adjustable models, and use Magpul’s MOE rifle stock almost exclusively. It’s shorter than the A2-length stock, which is a little too long for many shooters. The comb of the stock is wider and sloping, providing a positive, consistent cheek weld. The butt is shaped just right to fit into the pocket of the shoulder, and it has a storage compartment for oil, batteries and other essentials, such as small parts that might need replacing in the field — or small survival items.

In addition, there are multiple locations to attach the sling. I like it on the left rear so, when slung, the carbine lays flat against my body. (Magpul has the same shaped stock in an adjustable version.) On the left side of the stock is a SOF tourniquet.

Grabbing A Grip

If the AR has a design flaw, it’s the sharp corner between the grip and trigger guard. When manipulating the AR, you normally control it with the strong hand on the grip. This places a lot of weight on that “corner,” so it bites into your middle finger.

Any sling that will be looped around the body should have a quick-disconnect buckle. Whether you need to swap shoulders due to an injury or you’re getting dragged down the road ‘cause the sling is hooked on a truck bumper — you need to get free immediately.
Any sling that will be looped around the body should have a quick-disconnect buckle. Whether you need to swap shoulders due to an injury or you’re getting dragged down the road ‘cause the sling is hooked on a truck bumper — you need to get free immediately.

The DuckBill Tactical grip has an extension that smoothes out the transition between grip and trigger guard, alleviating the potential for getting scars on your middle finger. This is important: If your rifle causes pain, you won’t practice, and repetition is mandatory to learn and apply your skills.

The Handguard

Eugene Stoner — considered the father of the AR — was a genius in the ergonomics department. The original ARs had triangular or delta-shaped handguards, which fit the hand really well. But, the design had two problems: The material they were made of cracked and broke easily, and each side required a separate mold to make — one for the left side and one for the right. Later versions of the AR/M16 used round handguards made of stronger material and a single mold.

These days, Precision Reflex Incorporated makes a delta-shaped handguard out of carbon fiber, the Gen III forearm. It fits your hands well, is ultra durable and has plenty of locations to attach a Pic rail as needed. Depending on the position I’m shooting from, I grab the front of the sling in my fist to add stability, so I attach the front sling to the bottom of the handguard.

Vertical Grips

Vertical grips were designed for full-auto fire because the handguard gets too hot to hold. I don’t use vertical grips because they have some disadvantages for general use. First, you’re holding the grip well below the barrel, so all the weight is up high. Think about holding a really heavy lollipop by the stick … it wants to tilt over to the left or right.

Vertical grips also limit where you can locate the support hand, and the location of the support hand varies according to what body position you’re firing from. On top of all that, vertical grips restrict where you can brace or rest the handguard against an object for stability. Simple works well, and it’s versatile.

Sights And Lights

The author is a big fan of Daniel Defense’s A1.5 rear sight because, if the primary red-dot fails, there’s a backup ready for use. It doesn’t have elevation adjustment, but “simple is easy” is key.
The author is a big fan of Daniel Defense’s A1.5 rear sight because, if the primary red-dot fails, there’s a backup ready for use. It doesn’t have elevation adjustment, but “simple is easy” is key.

The “keep it simple” concept also applies to my sights. I use Aimpoint’s “Micro” red-dots. They’re small, rugged and dependable, and they come in several different versions. The sight also stays activated, so if I have to grab it in a hurry I don’t have to worry about turning it on. The battery lasts a long time, but just to be safe I change the battery every other month.

Regardless of what type of optic you run on your AR, you need back-up sights. I prefer fixed sights, and on my favorite rig the front is a standard fixed post, and the rear is a Daniel Defense A1.5 clamp-on that attaches to the Pic rail of the receiver. The Aimpoint is mounted in a 1/3 co-witness position, so the iron sights appear in the bottom third of the red-dot’s window. If the red-dot stops working, all I have to do is lower my cheek weld slightly, acquire the iron sights and keep shooting. If you have flip-up sights, I recommend keeping them up and ready for use.

All long guns for self-defense must have a light. Yes, there are techniques for using a hand-held light, but a weapon-mounted light makes things simple. I use Streamlight’s Super Tac, which is lightweight and simple to use. It’s mounted at an 11 o’clock position, which works well for rolling to the right, left or over the top of cover, and for clearing corners.

The left thumb operates the light, which features a push of the button for momentary light and a click for on and off. The bezel is designed so it throws a wide beam, but it also has an intense cone in the center that allows for identification of objects well past 100 yards. A quick-release scope mount clamped on the light attaches it to the rail on the handguards.

You Gotta Have Good Guts

A sure way to spark a debate between AR shooters is to bring up triggers. As I mentioned previously, my ARs are for self-defense, so a match or competition trigger is not an option. Using a trigger that’s too light under stressful conditions is a sure way to cause negligent, unintentional discharges, and those are scary.

ALG’s ACT trigger is my idea of the “perfect” trigger. It’s an enhanced mil-spec assembly with smoothed surfaces, and it features a nickel-boron-coated trigger with a Teflon coating on the hammer, disconnector and pins. The group comes with two springs that provide a 4½- or 5½-pound trigger pull. I run the 5½-pound spring.

Even though this AR isn’t a precision rifle, it’s still capable of shooting tight groups. The key is using a 2-MOA dot and getting the proper zero so shots are striking in the center of the dot.
Even though this AR isn’t a precision rifle, it’s still capable of shooting tight groups. The key is using a 2-MOA dot and getting the proper zero so shots are striking in the center of the dot.

The bolt group is probably the most critical part of the AR. I run nickel-boron-coated bolt carriers and bolts. They’re slick and easy to clean. Inside the bolt I run the Colt Gold extractor spring. I use the original style solid firing pin retaining pin, as opposed to the split cotter pin found in most bolt groups. The solid pins don’t get bent out of shape and are easier to install.

For the small parts — ejector spring, gas rings and other springs, detents and pins — I use Colt parts. I know Colt doesn’t make all their parts, but I can rest assured that they will be true mil-spec. To cycle everything, I use a Mech Armor Defense ambidextrous charging handle, which is well designed and almost bulletproof.

A True Custom Fit

That’s my defensive AR. Most all my other ARs are set up similarly. They are frighteningly similar in fact, which means regardless of which one I’m working with, it’s the same manual of arms.

Is my setup the perfect configuration for you? Maybe not, but you can take the same principles and apply them to your application.

Is There Anything More Rope-Ready Than An English Judge?


Tommy Robinson is an English patriot who was jailed last Friday after he filmed members of a Pakistani child-exploitation gang entering a court for trial. You could say that in reporting facts about the brown-skinned human garbage and the English girls they traffic under the protection of England’s authorities, he is doing what journalists ought to be doing but aren’t. Robinson’s supporters are protesting his arrest:

Impulsively, I first titled a draft of this post “Is There Anything More Loathsome Than An English Policeman.” On reflection, I reconsidered. Policemen play the role of a dumb animal that does what it’s ordered to do. If you are a wage-earner, that describes you as well, so let’s not feel superior. If I’m going to hate all cops, I should also hate all school teachers and all government contractors, all of whom follow the same orders.

Suburban_elk addresses the state’s extralegal practice of…

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